by Fire Island, the holiday destination near New York, has been associated with the LGBTQ+ community since the 1930s. It inspired books (Edmund Whites 1973 Roman, forgot Elena), a Romcom 2022 of the same name and now a fashion show for Saint Laurent.
The show takes place in the Paris Fashion Week in 30c heat, which is more suitable for a vacation and named the Beach Spot as a reference for creative director Anthony Vaccarello. They placed the show “somewhere between Paris and Fire Island, where the escape becomes elegance and desire becomes a language”.
The collection began with this mood: The first look was a few short shorts that were worn with a silk shirt and sunglasses. There is hardly any doubt that this form will be in the trend for men next year, and Prada will show it on her show in Milan last week.
In addition to beach processes, the details of the shorts found their way to the waistband on tailors and pastel colors that are ideal for summer. There was also a lot of work clothes, but instead of finding the more relaxed way in most offices in 2025, these designs committed themselves to the same extreme 80s-power dressing shoulder in Vaccarello HIT WOMENWEAR-KOLLECTION.
Brazed shirts and ties, trench coats and suits were trapped, often into the jewel tones connected to the brand. Every model wore sunglasses. There was not only the holiday feeling and the weather outside, but also a commercial angle: these are the entry designs that customers can buy before they can afford a suit.
The show took place in the Grand Bourse de Commerce, a former stock exchange, where François Pinault-Des’s original owner of the parent company of Saint Laurent, Kering, has been housed since 2021.
Although the text made it clear that the collection was not nostalgic – “no homage. Not memory. Continuity” – it was associated with a picture of a young Yves Saint Laurent, who wore short shorts on a tennis court in Oran in Algeria in Algeria and was recorded around 1950 when the designer was a teenager. It was also artist Stanton, Angus and Ellis – probably Larry Stanton, Patrick Angus and Darrel Ellis – and who documented in the 70s and 80s, and Stanton was a regular LGBTQ+ Life.
If this collection had a subtle homage to a time and a place, Vaccarelle Saint Laurent is also characterized in the lively moments that fill up the Internet and keeps a brand in 2025. This month, 82-year-old Christopher Walken alone in her advertising campaign came a time in which older legends were valued. The thigh-high patent wadders, which were in the men’s men’s shows in January, also have a feeling caused by Pedro Pascal and designer Marc Jacobs, who recently wear them.
Despite this profile, the brand – like many luxury brands – records a decline in sales. A report on financial results in the entire Kering Group for the first quarter of 2025 shows that sales have dropped by 9%. This number places it in the middle of its stare data, with the turn of Gucci by 25% and Bottega Veneta’s turnover has dropped by 4%. Kering announced Luca de Meo as a new CEO this month, and the man who was now commissioned to improve brand performance. Unusual for fashion, de Meo’s experience comes from another sector – previously he was CEO of Renault Cars. However, the industry seems to approve the appointment. In the run -up to the announcement, the group of the group rose by 13%.
